Hello, my partner! Let's explore the mining machine together!

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home made sand dryer

mini sand dryer (golf series) - dcr, inc

mini sand dryer (golf series) - dcr, inc

DCRs mini sand dryer is built with a heavy duty design. They come complete with burner, feed bin, and a screen on the discharge end to keep over size material from product. The DCR mini sand dryer will dry approximately 5 tons of sand per hour. The system is all mounted on a goose neck trailer with tandem axle.

Our sand heaters incorporate the Rubber Tire Drive System minimizing horsepower use and maintenance. DCR Inc. sand dryers use half the electric power of any other heater. We designed our sand heaters and dryers to stand only 7 feet off the ground, reducing the need for ramps for set-up. CSA or UL Approved

diy sand blaster $50 in an hour : 4 steps (with pictures) - instructables

diy sand blaster $50 in an hour : 4 steps (with pictures) - instructables

It's a media blaster to prep your metal for welding or powder coating, prep your beer glass for awesomeness, remove unsightly body hair painfully, feel like you are at a public beach, and tear stuff up.

9. Plexi glass for Window: $5 Plexiglass**Update** Prices keep changing on Amazon. The exhaust vent is $2 at Home Depot. We also changed the flange to one that has a little lip to it, but it did not help much.EXTRA Parts List1. Air connectors to fit your compressor.2. Silicone, Liquid Nails, Caulk, not hot glue, or any thick adhesive you think will seal plastic and keep sand from escaping.3. Teflon tape for air connections.4. Disposable clear shield for view window.5. Small Nut/Bolt pairs for securing the glove rings.TOOLS List1. Drill and bits for your size air hose connections2. Jig Saw for cutting holes and plumbers rings.3. Teflon tape for air line connections.4. File for rough edges on rings.

Thank you all for reading. I tried to make it was simple and quick as possible, highlighting the important stuff and taking lots of photos. I like more pics and less words in the instructables that I go after.

Very special thank you out to member sepeters228 (the guy in the pictures) who handled all of the precision work that boring rainy morning that we built this. Also out to Midsouthmakers.org the makerspacein Memphis who member Jwoodjr made one of these five years ago and posted this wiki based on an instructable he modified. I took his design and tried to see where I could make cheaper and quicker. This 'ible is what came of it. Thank you all! More to come soon, including video and photos of work done with this.

Definitely don't underestimate the advice in the instructable about SEALING EVERYTHING! Especially when using glass media. You don't want to end up with silicosis. I'd go with the walnut shell media to try first.

We use all different kinds of sand @ work & get drilled on silicosis safety. Silicosis was first identified w silicon sand dust, but even though its called silicosis, it's actually caused by any sharp dust which cuts the lungs & leaves scar tissue. Use a proper dust mask. Not just a paper filter but a real one w an air-tight rubber face seal, replaceable filters & one-way breathing valves, etc.

I take it then, 'nhampto9' that you are not based in the UK? I'm certainly not underestimating the problems with any very fine media (dust) if it is ingested. It was and has been my understanding that silicosis comes from the ingestion of v.fine sand particles. Yes, I know full well that sand is a large part of glass. Glass is inert however whereas I don't think sand is and that is where the difference is. As for Wikipedia.... it's only as good as the person who wrote the article. In other words do not take it as gospel, it's been proven to be totally wrong many times :( Anyway, I have put the question about silicosis out to a large community of people who I trust to know because they are themselves professional blasters. If I'm wrong I will accept it :)

1) No, I'm not UK. Across the pond in Texas.2) I don't get my info from Wikipedia. I never quoted there. This is from OSHA, CDC, & other US government agencies that regulate my career field.3) It's not the fineness of the dust that causes silicosis but the 'sharpness' as it reacts inside the lungs. Silicon, glass, & other such 'sharp dust' get lodged in the folds of the lungs & give numerous micro-cuts which scar. Scar tissue is inflexible. Normal lungs expand, contract, & stretch while breathing. Scar tissue won't. The condition known as 'silicosis' is from excess scar tissue which causes painful breathing & shortness of breath by the scar tissue causing incomplete breaths.4) Regulation of glass media in the UK is fine, but the same issue would come up if u were using beach sand or play sand or your own backyard dirt. I'm not trying to scare anyone, but it's important to educate yourself, be aware of the risks, & take appropriate action to mitigate those risks. I've worked w millions of tons of dusty sand for years without developing silicosis. I'm still in a dusty profession, just not sand (cement). This 'Ible has reopened ideas that were dormant because of the need for 'safe' sand blasting equipment. This can work.

Then you know here in the USA the biggest problem is silica in limestone and sand. MSHA is mining regulators and are big on those 2 dusts. I have been a surface miner for 23 years and have to be recertified yearly. Tested for dust exposer and trained on safety. As you said silica is everywhere. Any dust is not good like you said.

It's worth mentioning that there is another condition that should be thoroughly researched before going about this project. I've got a long word for you, it was actually the longest word in the guiness book of records one year: pneumonoultramicroscopicsilicovolcaniconiosis. Google this. I've only done minor research on it, but from what I've picked up is that fine silicon particles can and will vulcanize on the inside of your lungs over time, ultimately resulting in death. You may not see symptoms for tens of years, but if you're doing it constantly, the PPE for this needs to be highly considered. The measurement "micron" needs to be taken seriously! Things that we may consider "air tight" may mean nothing to particles this size and they will escape without you seeing it. Be sure that all filters you are using (your mask, the box) are rated for the proper micron size, otherwise they are useless. This is why certain types of media have been banned, and solidifying the everpresent need to do this in a well sealed box, not just outside

3). I need to further research this as I ma interested in it. Albeit from the point of using fine blasting media. In fact, I think anybody who uses blasting media of whatever sort should look into it as it concerns our health.

4) The use of any form of sand (I did wonder about using silver sand myself which is also marketed here as 'play sand') is of course down to the individual if used privately. All the regulations refer to a paid, working environment. I like to adhere to them though as they make sense even if they can be a bit annoying at times :) I absolutely agree about educating oneself. I have worked in a very dusty environment myself in the past. I worked in the concrete/cement business and part of my job was working inside the large silos that the ash, cement and sand were stored in. My worry is that back then we were not even provided with a simple gauze face mask :( To cap it off I have also worked with fibreglass in a 'wool' state which shed a lot of ultra fine fibres. You probably know the sort when you look into a beam of light and see them all floating around. I had to get out of that industry because I developed a cough with blood involved....

Silicosis is caused by breathing in crystalline silicon dioxide dust (smaller than about 10 micrometers in size). Sand slammed at high speed into the item being blasted, breaks down into crystalline silicon dioxide dust smaller than 10 microns.Glass Bead is made from soda-lime plate glass. This is an amorphous fusion of the oxides and is not the crystalline free oxides.It is good practice to wear a breathing mask when loose handling glass bead as there is a respiratory risk in all dusty environments."

Which is precisely what I thought but was not absolutely sure as I am not a professional. Ultimately we are all correct in saying it is hazardous to health to ingest (breathe in) blasting media. It is all harmful but some is more harmful than other stuff. It's up to the individual at the end of the day but I will certainly never use a sand type blasting media.

There are 3 types of "controls" to reduce risks in dangerous environments. 1) Run away.If u don't have to do it or be around it, don't. If your job doesn't require sand blasting (in this case), don't blast. A wire wheel could be just as effective w/o the dust risks.2) Engineering controlsThis blasting box is an engineering control. Dust sealing, vent fans, etc are all engineering controls. You can blast without it, but it's a dangerous, dusty mess. With it, it's a cleaner, safer process. For example, flip the box over after everything is inside. The dust most likely escapes through the lid edges. If flipped over, the lid is sealed w the sand on the bottom & the solid plastic won't leak. This also means the clear insert is unnecessary. OR, replace the lid w a larger sheet of plexiglass or acrylic that goes edge to edge & seal w weatherstripping. Since the air gun is adding air to the box, a vent to a vacuum could be helpful. W a net negative pressure inside, the lid stays sealed & dust gets filtered through the vacuum.3) Personal Protective Equipment (PPE). When all else fails or the danger is serious enough, PPE is the last line of defense. Safety glasses, respirators, gloves, etc. protect you when nothing else is. Each person must make their own determination of risk & need to determine PPE at home. At work, it's often mandated. Since silicosis is caused by ANY sharp dust & the recycled media gets broken into smaller & smaller pieces, I'd be more concerned w glass beads than sand. The beads aren't an inhalant, but the glass dust is. I've worked w asbestos on several occasion w no negative effects, but it was solid shingles not airborne fibers. I'd imagine airborne fiberglass didn't do you any good.

I'm not so sure you can get silicosis from using 'glass' media. The risk of silicosis was back in the days when sand was used for blasting, hence the old term 'sand blasting'. That is, the use of sand as blasting media has been outlawed in the UK for a few decades but I do not know about other countries. Walnut shell (as mentioned) is very good blasting media especially for more delicate items.

No, glass is actually different in the body to sand. I am not saying that ingesting glass media is any good for you but I still say that sand is actually worse. It's why it was banned as a blasting media here in the UK but glass beads are allowed.

Err "Silica (the chemical compound SiO2) is a common fundamental constituent of glass." - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glass"Silicon dioxide, also known as silica (from the Latinsilex), is a chemical compound that is an oxide of silicon with the chemical formulaSiO2" -

The problem would not be with ingesting the glass media, since nobody is eating it by the spoonful. The problem would be with inhaling the finer particles since once it goes into the lungs, it doesn't all come back out.

Really frustrating for someone who can't get the exact items from the build list. Also, the updates peppered in don't give enough detail to be helpful. Worked on this for 2 hours, not including agonizing shopping venture into Big Box Home Supply and still don't have anything remotely useable.

What issues are you having? Is it the sealing? or the air supply? or the exhaust?The most important parts are to have good volume of air supply, then make sure the blaster is sucking up sand. make sure it is light sand and not too heavy, then make sure the exhaust is filtered and not coming out of the seals.If anything else, check the blaster gun outside of the box hooked right up to a compressor to make sure it is working. Then same thing with each piece to see what is messing up.I will try to go through the build again and update links and instructions.Thank you

A Fan'n Pan is a great way to remove dust and particulate from the air. put a box fan pointing down at a pan/ tub of water (drop of jet dry doesn't hurt) at the exhaust end or get elaborate an vent into another tub with a fan aimed at the waters surface.

how to make kinetic sand

how to make kinetic sand

It is no secret that children love to play and get messy, but why would any parent, guardian, or educator want to bring a mess into their home? Childrenplay in all sorts of waysto develop fine motor skills, gross motor skills, and social skills. There are activities you can do at home or school to aid children in developing these skillsone of them is encouraging sensory play.

Sensory play can build nerve connections in the brain's pathways, which will help little ones complete more complex learning tasks later in life. It can also help calm an anxious or frustrated child, and it helps kids learn sensory attributes: hot, cold, hard, soft, sticky, and dry.

Makingkinetic sandis a great sensory play activity and one that a child can assist in making. Have them be your scienceassistant and practice skills of measuring, pouring, and mixing. Not only will they gain confidence by making something for themselves, but youll feel proud watching it unfold.

Use your spoon measurer to measure out two tablespoons of corn starch, and add it to your sand. Help a child get an accurate measurement by having them scoop the corn starch with the measurer, and then use a finger to level out the powder in the spoon by brushing it across the top.

Since kinetic sand is made up of 98 percent sand and 2 percent polymersyou will need to make a solution containing polymers to add to the sand. The polymers that we need for our kinetic sand are found in dish soap.

Add at least 6 drops of food coloring into the soapy water solution. We used red and blue food coloring to make purple kinetic sand. The darker the soapy water solution is, the more colorful your sand will be. It takes more food coloring in the water then you think it does. Should you decide later to add more food coloring, you can do so when you are mixing your sand.

Slowly pour thesolution into your sand. If you pour too fast, your sand will be runny. You are aiming for a consistency of a really thick milkshake. It's best to take this step slow and mix the sand with the solution as you goyou will not need to use all the solution you made.

The best part of making kinetic sand is playing with it afterward. Use a plastic knife or fork to try slicing your sand. Have fun with cookie cutters and sandcastle molds. If you are planning to save your sand, package it in an air-tight container or zip bag. Note that the sand may start to dry after a while (the air will evaporate the liquid in the sand). If it does, add some more soapy water solution to continue playing. Enjoy!

how to make magic water-proof sand - the geek pub

how to make magic water-proof sand - the geek pub

Magic sand is awesome. Its one of those things thats just sort of mesmerizing to witness. Sand that is somehow waterproof! Sand that refuses to get wet! If you didnt see water proof magic sand when you were a kid in school, well I hate to say it. Your science teachers were lame! Magic sand is something every kid should see and learn about in school.

Magic sand works by coating the sand with a hydrophobic material. The hydrophobic material causes the sand grains to adhere to one another and form cylinders. This greatly minimizes the surface area when exposed to water. This allows for the sand to be completely dry when removed from the water, as no water was able to penetrate the individual grains.

Youll need a flat baking pan. It can be any shape you have around. A rectangular pan works well, but you could also use a pizza pan or a deep dish pan (like the kind used to make brownies). It just needs to have a flat bottom.

Youre probably going to want to use this pan for food in the future. So lets take just a second to protect it from the sand and the Scotchguard protector were about to spray it with. If you dont plan to ever use this pan for food again, then this step is purely optional.

Youre going to need some sand and some Scotchgard protector. The finer the sand particles are, the better it will work. I recommend getting some hermit crab sand from your local pet store. Any sand will produce the effect were looking for though, even beach sand.

Make sure you get Scotchgard Protectorrather than cleaner (the can in the picture is wrong and will not work, where it says cleaner, it needs to say Protector). You can get the protector at just about any home improvement center or big box retailer.

Youre going to want to spread the sand over the pan as thinly as possible. The thinner the later the better. Cover the entire surface area of the pan. If you have more sand dont make thicker layers. Set it aside and make a second batch. The thinness of this layer is a key to correctly making magic sand.

Spray on a fairly thick coating of the Schotchgard protector. The idea is you want it to penetrate all of the grains of sand. But dont spray it on so thick that there is liquid pooling anywhere. The sand should easily absorb all of the protector.

Wait 15 minutes (or more if needed) to let the Scotchgard protector completely dry. Once it is dry use your fingers and stir and mix the sand. The idea here is to expose any grains of sand that did not get coated in step 5.

Once youve mixed it and spread it all back flat again, spray on another coat of the Scotchgard Protector. Repeat steps 5-7 as many times as necessary. Ive found that it takes a good 4 coats to get the best magic sand effect. If you find your magic sand isnt working, you probably needed more coats.

The best way to test your magic sand to find out if it needs additional coats is to put some of it in a spoon and then drizzle some water on it under the sink. If its not working, your pan needs another coat.

The first thing well need is a baking pan wrapped with aluminum foil, so that we dont damage it. Be sure to wrap it around the edges to completely protect it. The second thing well need is some dry sand. I bought this bag of hermit crab sand at my local pet store for about $3 bucks. And lastly, the key ingredient is can Scotch Gard from your local home improvement store.

Now take some of the sand and spread it around evenly on your baking pan. I like to shake the pan gently to thin it out. Then spray an even coat of Scotch Gard over the top of the sand. Once it is dry use your hand to spread it around and mix it up. We want a whole new layer of sand to coat. Once youve smoothed it out completely, its time to apply another even coat of Scotch Gard. After dries youll need to repeat this process five or six times.

And thats it! Now you have your own batch of magic water-proof sand to amaze your friends with! Try pouring some into a glass of water. The effect is quite cool and it really shows the water repelling effect of Scotch Gard. Since the sand is heavier than the water it just clumps at the bottom of the glass and pushes the water to the top.

Mike is the founder of The Geek Pub. A jack of all trades who simply enjoys the challenge creating things, whether from wood, metal, or lines of code in a computer. Mike has created all kinds of projects that you can follow and build yourself, from a retro arcade cabinet to plantation shutters for your home. As an accomplished IT Executive with 25+ years experience, Mike believes that in today's world of ever changing intense competition, IT must be strategically aligned to the business like never before.

make a diy sandblaster - how to build a cheap sandblaster

make a diy sandblaster - how to build a cheap sandblaster

To build a sandblaster you need a way to harnesscompressed air and sand, and a way tosend it through an applicator gun. This is much easier said than done, but the skilled metalworkers at Make It Extreme have found a way.

They started with four empty LPG (liquifiedpetroleum gas)canisters, and proceeded to cut the tops and bottoms off usingplasma cutters,creatingtwo large canisters. Then they cut holes for various air fixtures and also made a rolling cart which makes the unit mobile.

An applicator gun was built from pipe, and then all of the hoses were tightened up and sand was added to one of the canisters. The final test was to add pressurized air. After that? Time to start blasting.The sandblaster quickly removed old paint from the cans and then started blasting paint from sheet metal and wood.

This is an advanced project requiring heavy use of a welder and plasma cutter. You can do this at home, but you're gonna need a lot of a equipment and definitely want to have a more than a few metalworking projects under your belt before you attempt this.For more details about the project visit MakeItExtreme.com.

how to build your own sand filter

how to build your own sand filter

Making a long-lasting sand filter for your above-ground pool is a simple task that requires only a few materials. It can supplement or replace the cartridge filter you are currently using, and it needs cleaning, on average, only once a year. Follow the steps below and try out this solution to a clean pool.

Purchase a 10-gallon, tall, rectangular, clear plastic storage container with a tight-fitting lid. Scooping up any old sand for your filter won't work, so head to any pool supply store to buy filter sand specifically; it has specially shaped small grains that trap pool debris effectively. You can recycle old nylon stockings for this project as well, but use a high denier (woven thread count) type so they will filter the water thoroughly. Super-sheer nylons will not stand up to the abrasion of the sand grains or the water pressure through the pool pump.

Using a drill, punch two round holes in the container, one in the middle of the lid and the second on one of the narrow container ends, half an inch above the bottom. Make the holes the same diameter as your pool pump filter tubing. Then, run a length of tubing from the top of the pool down to the sand filter container. Put your sand filter close to the cartridge filter and pump for convenience. Insert a second tube into the bottom of the sand filter container that will take filtered water back to the pool pump. Seal both of the openings around the tubes with 100 percent silicone caulking to ensure it is waterproof. Place a section of one leg of the nylon stockings over the opening of the bottom tube, fasten it firmly with black waterproof plumbing tape, and caulk it with the silicone sealant to hold it firmly.

Remove the filter lid and pour the 10-pound bags of pool sand into the container. Spread it out so it is level and fills up to 3/4 of the container's depth. When the water enters it should spread out evenly across the top of the sand filter medium. Place the lid snugly on the container once it is full, and tie down the lid with strap clamps so you can release the lid again when the sand needs cleaning. When the sand darkens to a greenish-black color, it must be cleaned.

If your filter is leaking at either its entry or exit port, repair it with more caulking or make and attach a new tube. Check your sand filter's operation weekly. As a result of adding the sand filter, your cartridge filter should require cleaning far less often. If your sand filter is doing the job by itself, you can remove the cartridge filter from the system altogether.

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