diy conveyor belt (with pictures) - instructables
I was doing a pick n place type machine, but became tired of the time needed in a xyz style of machine to travel back and forth. It seemed to make more sense for the part to move close to the dispenser.
Conveyors are a basic element of many production systems, and needed a simple open source hardware design. Commercially available conveyors of similar size (with much higher quality engineering) seem to cost around $1000 onto which you need to add $200+ for a variable speed controller! It seemed possible to make a sufficiently good one for less than about 80$ and control it properly from a stepper motor.
The strength, length and width of your conveyor needs to be determined. I cut the steel bar down to 180cm so it would fit on my desk, and chose a width of 40 cm with rollers every 15 cm which required 12 rollers. If it needs to be stronger you could triple the density of rollers.
Cheap electrical tubing (IRL 25 mm) is used to make the rollers. Buy the cheapest quality with the 1.5 mm walls. Wise to take a bearing with you when buying this to make sure that it fits. It should push in with a gentle to medium push. You should not have to force.
This is what is going to give most of the rigidity and allow you to attach it to a table or attach other tools to the conveyor. You need it to have a dimension that will allow a roller plus the belt to move freely. You'll also be attaching lots of 8 mm bolts, so it will help enormously if it has 8 mm slots in it.
The classic 608 bearing has an outer diameter of 22 mm that corresponds with the inner diameter of the PVC tube. It also has an inner diameter of 8 mm which allows strong 8 mm bolts to be used. These can be picked up from sporty discount shops or ebay in packs of 8-10 for about 0.5 euros each.
Somewhat rare but available in decent hardware shops, these allow you to grip to the inside of the plastic tube. They act as a coupler between a drive shaft and the tube. You probably can't find them with ~7 mm inner diameter, so you'll have to drill out the middle a little
This is an expensive luxury but works very well. It is like sandpaper on one side and very sticky on the other side. This is what grips the underneath of the table cloth. You may be able to just stick sandpaper onto one of your rollers, or use paint/varnish/glue and some sand.
These days they are made of a soft plastic coating with a fabric underside. They are generally sold in 1.5m widths which is far too large. The fabric side helps grip the grippy roller. The plastic top is flexible and relatively durable. This was the cheapest material I could find that had the right properties.
The rigidity of the conveyor comes from the steel bars plus at least 2 lengths of 8 mm threaded rod that pass through the middle of the tubes. For longer lengths, additional pieces of threaded rod would increase rigidity. I used threaded rod at the two ends: 1 all the way through the roller that acts as a belt tightener, and 1 all the way through the drive roller.
Prepare an 8 mm slot at one end of each steel bar to allow the tightener to work. The bar I bought only had 6 mm slots, so I needed to drill 8 mm holes for each roller and create an 8 mm slot for the tightener.
Prepare the drive roller. This needs to have high friction. You could paint the pvc with something sticky and cover it in coarse sand, or just cheat and stick on some anti-slip tape. Once grippy, you need a way to drive it from the stepper motor.
A 22 mm bung, with the center drilled out to 7 mm can be stretched onto an 8 mm threaded rod. When this is pushed into the inside of a pvc pipe, it provides enough friction to turn the pipe. You then need to find a way to drive this rod. I happened to have the luxury of some timing belt and cogs left over from a previous machine, so I hacked up some plywood to support this.
A neater design would be to use a small length of some hollow metal 8mm tube as a support guide with the shaft of a NEMA 17 though the middle to a rubber bung. This would avoid the use of other cogs and belts.
Once all your bearings are in place, and you have prepared the drive roller and the tightener roller, you can install the plastic pipes on one side, then push the assembly together. This can take a little patience.
Cut your table cloth with a sharpie a little less wide than the rollers, and leave 5-10 cm extra length for attaching. Slip the cloth into place and sow or use wide tape to secure it. Tighten the tensioner and you should be ready.
Find a common steel L bar which has 8 mm slotsAvoid the stepper motor being above the belt (not below either, nor should it be higher than the L bar )Avoid the use of cogs and drive belts (hollow 8 mm tube with stepper shaft through the middle?)Find a way to attach an 8mm threaded rod via a bearing directly to the steel bar without the need for plywood adapter
thanks for the reply, so far I have seen 3\4" to be too small and 1" too big for the 608 bearings. I am almost able to sand or use a special drill bit on the 3 \4" ... Havent tried a different size of bearing yet.... Metric is much nicer.
Having never built something like this before, I was wondering if you would be able to clarify a bit on your instructions. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! (I also plan to use a rotisserie motor, to avoid tech stuff, and since I don't need variable speeds).
Yes, sorry about that! 1. How does one set up the cable tighteners? 2. How do you set up the drive roller to attach to the motor? 3. Does the threaded rod go through the whole tube, or does it just fill a little part of it? i.e. how long should it be? 4. Is any lubrication needed?Thanks so much!
Hi Lahiru,I used a bearing on the rod at each end outside the tube to support the rod, and one bearing inside the tube on the opposite end from the motor to support the tube (this could have been a bung).Hope this helps, and good luck!
The tighteners push the end bar out giving tension to the belt. When you pull your belt tight by hand to tape it / glue it / sew it, you probably won't get enough tension and over time the belt might stretch. I haven't tried without them, but I know that by using them I can pull out a couple of centimeters of slack and adjust the belt so it runs straight. If your belt is very short you may be able to skip them. If your belt is very long there are other techniques to take up slack. e.g. http://www.rrfloody.com/Downloads/Belt_Tensioning_...
The rubber bung has 22mm outer diameter and a ~7mm hole. This is on the 8mm threaded rod, inside of the drive tube. It is what couples the spinning rod to the inside of the tube by friction. It has no direct connection to the timing belt. The timing belt is just a way of taking the rotation of the stepper to the threaded rod. If you have very low tension on your belt, you could consider just putting the bung on the stepper drive shaft and jamming this into the tube. This would result in a sideways force on the stepper shaft, which may be OK, but seems as though it could damage the stepper. If you can't find a rubber bung, then plywood and glue would work, but your are then stuck if you need to change something.
Yes, if the rubber bung is drilled too small for the rod, once pushed onto the rod it should expand slightly and be tight against the PVC tube. I've noticed that the quality (wall thickness, hence inner diameter) of the PVC tube changes between batches and manufacturers. If your bung slips, you can add tape around it to make it tighter, or just squeeze a ton of glue until it holds ;)
lightweight conveyor belt : 7 steps - instructables
I'm currently in the process of making a Halloween contraption. One of the components in the contraption is a Lightweight Conveyor Belt. It's not sexy, and I debated whether if it was even worth writing about. It is a very simple system, easy to build, and designed for lightweight items. However, it is not robust nor designed for long time use. I figure, though, someone might find it useful.
I needed a way to move 1 to 4 bite-sized wrapped candy from here to there in such a way that it fit with the theme of my Halloween contraption. An episode of I Love Lucy came to mind where Lucy and Ethel picked and wrapped candy as it went by on a conveyor belt. I found something in PBJ Mechanical Munchie Machine and modified it for my needs. My end goal was to make it tall, adjustable, inexpensive, and look kinda cool (for 3-10 yr old kids). I also wanted to be able to reuse most of the parts after Halloween was over.
These parts will make a conveyor belt about 72" long, 17" high in the back sloping down to 13" in the front. The rear tension system will reach back about 12". The belt will be 7" wide but the width of the PVC frame, rollers, and motor will be about 13".
The magic (or should I say luck) of the system is that the butt end of a cheap plastic paint roller frame handle fits very tightly into a 3/4" PVC pipe connector. The paint roller frame is rigid enough to hold a moderate length of canvas fairly taut. I tried fitting 9" and 7" cheap paint roller frames from 3 different hardware stores into various 3/4" PVC connectors and they all fit tightly. I figured if they were a tad too big, the connector could be widened, or if they were a tad too small, tape could be used as a shim. All of the connectors in this section are slip (i.e., not threaded).
The width of the system can be altered by changing the width of the paint roller frame, maybe using 4" or 9" rollers. The height of the system can be increased by extending PVC lengths, but it will be harder to make it any shorter than 12". It depends on diameter of the paint roller frame handle. As long as the cut handle fits tightly into the connector, possibly with the use of tape as a shim, then it should work.
Duck canvas is a moderately dense, non-stretchy fabric. It's very easy to work with. It comes in various vibrant colors. It's cheap when on sale, about $5 yd at Jo-Ann's. I tried making the belt with both duct tape and felt. Duct tape was way too heavy and felt was way too stretchy. If the belt fabric is stretchy, when pulled taut and the front and back rollers are not perfectly parallel with each other, the belt will stretch out of shape and move right or left on the roller, eventually falling off the roller.
When buying the canvas, consider buying it measured out the length, not the width, of the canvas. For example, if 72" are needed and the fabric bolt is 80" wide and if it's really cheap, buy 2 yards instead of 1/2 yard. The duck canvas has a nice, straight, finished edge that won't have to be prepared to keep it from unraveling.
This was hit and miss. I didn't know exactly what to order so I ordered a motor at some speed and a pulley set. The motor arrived first and it was immediately too slow. Attaching the only pulley-like item I had, a sewing bobbin, it took about 18 secs for an item to travel the length of the belt, way too long for a kid to wait for candy. The 50mm pulley subsequently arrived and dropped the time down to about 7 secs.
The motor was the single most expensive part of this project. I didn't really know what I was doing when I ordered it new. Since then, I have ordered or found a number of used motors of varying speeds and quality and all of them were cheaper. This is definitely the way to go. For this project, the motor really only needs to be of moderate speed and have moderate torque. A pulley can easily increase the speed as desired. As for torque, take a conservative guess of how heavy the payload will be.
This was also hit and miss. At first I didn't use a spring. I relied on the friction of the mounted connectors. Talking to a few other makers, they recommended a spring to provide flexible constant tension. I really didn't know how long or strong the spring had to be. I took a guess and bought a number of used springs of different lengths and strengths from a salvage yard. Adding the turnbuckle was the secret sauce. It allowed finer adjustments to the spring tension.
The layout of the PVC and connectors is fairly relative. To help align them, draw a reference grid on the 48" x 18" plywood. I did every 12" along the long length (4 divisions) and then I created a 4" region down the center of the long length, since most of the fine tuning will be from the center.
Cut 8x 3" length of 3/4" PVC pipe. Build 4x feet: 3" + tee + 3". When building these feet, really push in, even hammer in, the pipe into the connector. They can be glued but I didn't because I want to use the tee's for another day.
This is for the shortest roller. It is the roller that things will roll off of. Mount it to the plywood using the hanging strap and wood screws about 4 1/4" from the edge and in the center of the 4" region. When mounting down, place the hanging strap in the center of the PVC length. This provides room to slide the foot back and forth when trying to fine tune the roller alignment. Also, mount the strap over the pipe so that it has a good bite down on the pipe. This will prevent the foot from unnecessarily spinning.
This helps support the belt. It needs to be mounted 10 3/4" from the edge. But due to the belt slope, the foot needs to raised 1/2". Just cut some scrap wood, attach it to the platform, then mount the foot. In my system, I'm placing an item in this area so I need a bigger piece of scrap wood.
Put A into the tee of the foot. Put the cross on A. Put B in a horizontal connector. Put 90 degree on B. Put C on 90 degree. Put 9" roller on frame. Put the frame in the cross such that the frame rod is closest to C. Really push down the frame handle into the connector. Use duct tape or something around the handle if there isn't enough bite. It should be very difficult (not impossible) to spin the handle in the connector. Also, don't bend the frame rod.
On the opposite side of the motor, place a long straightedge along the butt ends of the first and last paint rollers. Make sure the straightedge is parallel down the length of the platform. Hammer the feet on one side or the other so that the rollers are flush against the straightedge. Now make rollers 2 and 3 flush. Reposition any feet if it is too far off from being flushed and the strap is preventing any more movement or is falling off.
Drill out a 1" hole about 1/2" deep into a wooden block that's 3 1/2 " x 1 1/2" x 3/4". Use a Forstner bit or something to create a flat bottom hole. Center the hole along the short axis and offset it about 3/8" along the long axis.
Fill the hole with water and let it soak. Once the wood inside is soft enough, dump the water and carefully screw in the 3/4" MIPT x slip connector. Make sure it screws in squarely. Once it is far enough in, let it dry overnight. The process may need to be repeated so that the connector screws in and out nicely.
Attach the connector on the mount to the upright pipe. Attach a rubber band to the pulley and the roller. To have enough tension in the band, pull back the motor's PVC pipe, or replace the band with one that's less elastic or smaller. It does not have to be super tight over the roller, but it does have to have a little bite.
This Instructable is less about the electronics and more about the build. So the electronics for this project is very simple. What I'm using is probably overkill, but it is what I have laying around. Basically, a button is pushed which starts and runs the motor for 5 secs and then stops. Not rocket science.
Bring one edge to the other overlapping them by 2". Make sure it is completely flat and squarely overlapping. If it is off by a little bit, the belt will gradually make its way off the roller. Pin it into position. Sew both edges (top and bottom side) down onto itself about 1/4" in from the edge. Use a sewing machine if possible. If there is any puffiness in the overlap, unstitch one edge, flatten, and restitch. Do not glue them together. The glue will make the area stiff and it bump around roller 1 and 4 possibly throwing the alignment off.
Constant tension has to be applied to the rollers to keep the belt taut. The easiest way is to lock down position of the Roller 1 and add a spring to Roller 4. Turnbuckles are used to fine tune the locked position of the rollers.
In the center of Roller 1, attach an eye bolt 1" from the edge. Zip tie together the paint roller frame handle and the eye bolt side of the turnbuckle. Open the turnbuckle mid-way and then attach the hook to the eye bolt in the platform. You will probably have to rotate the foot to get the hook to reach the eye bolt.
In the center of Roller 4, attach an eye bolt 12" away from the foot. Zip tie the spring onto the paint roller frame. Zip tie the turnbuckle eye bolt to the spring. Open the turnbuckle mid-way and then attach the hook to the eye bolt in the platform, rotating the foot as necessary.
If the belt is too taut such that the rods of the paint roller frames are twisting, reduce the tension. To reduce the tension, either adjust the turnbuckles, use a weaker spring, get a longer spring or turnbuckle, or reposition the platform eye bolt for Roller 4.
Make sure Roller 1 and 4 are square with one another. If they are not, the belt will roll off. Adjust Roller 2 and 3 so that they support the items moving across the belt. If they are too low, then raise the handle or add a shim underneath the foot. If they are too high, cut the handle.
Once the belt is taut, try to move it with the motor. If the motor can't move it, use one with more torque or increase the voltage to the motor. If the rubber band is slipping, adjust its tension by moving the motor PVC pipe or use a different band. If the belt isn't moving fast enough, increase the power voltage, get a faster motor, or increase the size of the pulley.
Hi! I'm new to the site and I just wanted to say thanks! I'm making a structure for a children's performance where chickens lay eggs which are then carried along a conveyor belt and was having a lot of problems: my belt is a broad bit of elastic stretched between two handmade pulley wheels - hand powered by a crank on one wheel. The elastic kept tipping up, and I think I've solved it by adding paint roller wheels as support along it's length...the elastic does have a tendency to come off the wheels but I'm hoping to sort that, it may simply be that they are not as well aligned as they might be! Might try a less elastic belt but wondering if it will still turn. Your design is brilliant!
That's awesome. I think this is a perfect a ample of how instructables was born. It's certainly the kind of instructable I look for. Makes something new out of lots of old stuff I already have for a single use purpose.
Oh, I completely agree. A "thing" can almost always be more than what it was born for. It's also pretty enlightening when someone creates something in an usual way using unusual items. It seems to bring out or heighten just what is the essence of the "thing" or the build.
the one conveyor you shouldnt use to handle frac sand | cdm systems, inc
Economists, analysts and American citizens are seeing a welcome resurgence in U.S. manufacturing in recent years, a phenomenon that some energy industry entities are connecting to hydraulic fracturing (or fracking).
One of them is Energy In Depth (EID), an organization dedicated to communicating the benefits of responsibly developing Americas onshore energy resources especially oil and natural gas extracted by fracking from shale and other abundant rock formations across the country.
In a January 2018 article, EID cites statistics from a research report that show how fracking has made affordable natural gas possible. Additionally, according to EID, U.S. shale gas production and the number of U.S. manufacturing jobs increased in tandem each year from 2010-2015, indicating a correlation between the two.
Many consider the combination of more jobs and less expensive energy to be highly desirable. Many others are justifiably concerned about the health, safety and environmental risks associated with fracking. One area of concern is the dust created by silica sand, an essential ingredient in the extraction of oil and natural gas from shale.
A 2013 study by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) identified exposure to crystalline silica sand as one of the most significant known health hazards to workers during hydraulic fracturing. Breathing silica dust can cause several diseases including lung cancer and silicosis, a fatal and incurable respiratory condition that can take 10-15 years to demonstrate symptoms.
The conveying systems used in these plants are essential in the effort to significantly reduce if not eliminate silica-related health risks. It all starts by abandoning a traditional, budget-conscious approach to equipment selection.
Belt conveyors typically are the most common material handling solutions found in sand and gravel applications. When evaluated strictly on a commercial basis, belt conveyors offer the least costly method of getting the job done. However, they come up short in one area that is critically important to the safe handling of silica sand: Enclosed conveying.
By nature, a belt conveyor will create carryover and spillage. It is not possible to enclose a belt conveyor without creating maintenance headaches due to material filling up the conveyor cavity and quickly damaging the belt. There is also no way to sufficiently prevent moisture or the elements from contaminating the product in a belt conveyor. But most importantly, belt conveyors cannot control hazardous silica dust as effectively as other conveying equipment:
Hydraulic fracturing has been a hot-button issue for years. Factions on both sides of the argument continue to debate the economic benefits of this energy extraction process versus the environmental and safety-related drawbacks. Two things are certain: Fracking initiatives wont be slowing down anytime soon, and silica sand is required in the process.
Given the first certainty, the onus is on frac sand plants to handle the material as responsibly as possible to minimize the inherent hazards to their employees and the surrounding communities. A single lawsuit or workers compensation claim could cost a silica facility millions of dollars and quickly negate any up-front savings from choosing a belt conveyor instead of a material handling method that is better suited for the application.
The CDM story is about recognizing every industrial operation is different, as are their conveying challenges. A custom-engineered conveying system is a cost-effective approach to any operation willing to look at the value of having a partner who is vested in your success and one who stands by their product. CDM has earned more than 91 percent repeat business because were more than just a conveying systems manufacturer were a business partner.
wearing thin? how to prevent premature conveyor belt replacement aggregate research international
Millions of euros are being wasted by the aggregates industry every year because the conveyor belts they are using are wearing out much faster than they should be doing. The biggest single cause is that the rubber is of insufficient quality and provides inadequate resistance to the abrasive actions of the materials it is carrying. But there is more to it than that.
Conveyor belt specialist Leslie David looks at the question of abrasion-resistant belting and provides some helpful advice on how to reduce costs by selecting belts that provide a much longer and cost-effective working lifetime.
The wear-resistant quality of the outer covers of a conveyor belt is the biggest single influence on the working life of the belt and consequently its whole life economic cost. The rubber used for the outer covers usually constitutes at least 70% of the overall thickness of both multi-ply and steel cord belts. This makes the cost rubber the single biggest element of cost when manufacturing a conveyor belt.
Consequently, it is, therefore, the single most significant opportunity for manufacturers to minimize costs and to compete for orders based on price rather than quality and performance. From the buyers point of view, although the price of a belt may be 30% lower than other offers, if it wears out 50% faster than the apparently higher-priced version, then it really is not such a bargain after all.
The wear-resistant quality of the covers is the biggest influence on the whole life cost of a conveyor belt
Two of the most common methods used to minimize rubber costs are using recycled rubber, usually of highly questionable origin, within the mix and the use of cheap bulking fillers such as chalk to replace part of the rubber polymers in the rubber compound.
There are a great many different types of rubber compound used because modern-day belts have to deal with a multitude of different (and often combined) demands. Because of its adaptability, most of the rubber used in conveyor belting is synthetic. Hundreds of different chemical components and substances are needed to create these synthetic rubber compounds that, once vulcanized, are able to meet the specific physical performance and safety requirements.
Yet another corner-cutting method employed by manufacturers of economy belting is the use of a low grade, cheap form of carbon black created by burning used car tires. Some 20% of the rubber compound is made up of carbon black, so it has a notable impact on cost.
Good quality carbon black is created by a process of burning oil in a highly controlled, low oxygen environment so that combustion is incomplete. Burning used car tires not only pollutes the atmosphere it also means that the carbon black it creates contains the potentially harmful chemicals previously contained in the tires that will go on to form part of the conveyor belt.
It is a common misconception that a belt specified by a supplier as being abrasion resistant should naturally be expected not to wear quickly. Different causes of wear and abrasion require different kinds of abrasion resistant covers.
For example, belts that transport heavy and/or sharp objects such as rocks, timber or glass that cause cutting and gouging of the belt surface need different resistance properties compared to belts carrying fine materials such as aggregate, sand and gravel, which literally act like a piece of coarse sandpaper that is constantly scouring the rubber cover.
As a general rule, 80% of conveyor belt surface wear occurs on the top cover of the belt with approximately 20% of wear on the bottom cover. Wear on the top cover is primarily caused by the abrasive action of the materials being carried, especially at the loading point or station where the belt is exposed to impact by the bulk material and at the discharge point where the material is effectively accelerated by the belt surface.
Contrary to popular belief, short belts (below 50 metres) usually wear at a faster rate because they pass the loading and discharge points more frequently compared to long belts. For this reason, the selection of the correct type of cover quality and the thickness of shorter length belts becomes even more important than usual.
Wear on the bottom cover of the belt is mainly caused by the friction contact with the drum surface and idlers. The rate and uniformity of this type of wear can be adversely affected by many other factors such as misaligned or worn drums and idlers set at incorrect angles.
Other factors like an unclean environment where there is a build-up of waste material can accelerate wear. Belt cleaning systems, especially steel-edged scrapers, can also cause wear to the top cover surface.
The actual thickness of the cover is an important consideration. Generally speaking, the more abrasive the material and the shorter the conveyor, the thicker the cover should be. In principle, the difference in thickness between the top cover and the bottom cover should not exceed a ratio of more than 3 to 1. In an effort to extend operational lifetime, many conveyor belt users resort to fitting belts with increasingly thicker covers. However, covers that are too thick can potentially cause other problems. In reality, the single most important factor is the actual abrasion resistance of the belt cover rubber.
There is absolutely no question that ALL rubber conveyor belts should be fully resistant to the damaging effects of ozone and ultraviolet light. This is because ozone becomes a pollutant at ground level. Exposure increases the acidity of carbon black surfaces and causes reactions to take place within the molecular structure of the rubber. This has several consequences, such as surface cracking and a marked decrease in the tensile strength of the rubber.
Likewise, ultraviolet light from sunlight and artificial (fluorescent) lighting also accelerate deterioration. This is because it produces photochemical reactions that promote the oxidation of the surface of the rubber resulting in a loss in mechanical strength. In both cases, this kind of degradation causes the covers of the belt to wear out even faster than it should.
Rubber belts that are not fully resistant to ozone and UV can start to show signs of degradation even before they have been fitted to a conveyor simply by being exposed to the open air and daylight. Sadly, despite its crucial importance in terms of operational lifetime, ozone and UV resistance is very rarely, if ever, mentioned by traders or manufacturers.
This is almost certainly because the anti-ozonants that need to be used during the mixing process of the rubber compounds are relatively costly. Building in that avoidable cost would immediately make the belt less competitive on price. My advice is always to make ozone & UV resistance a required part of the specification when selecting any rubber conveyor belt.
There are two internationally recognized sets of standards for abrasion, EN ISO 14890 (H, D and L) and DIN 22102 (Y, W and X). In Europe it is the longer-established DIN standards that are most commonly used. Generally speaking, DIN Y (ISO 14890 L) relates to normal service conditions. In addition to resisting abrasive wear DIN X (ISO 14890 H) also has good resistance to cutting, impact and gouging. DIN W (ISO 14890 D) is usually reserved for particularly high levels of abrasive wear.
ISO 4649 / DIN 53516 abrasion testing. The lower the figure, the better the wear resistance
The test method for abrasion (ISO 4649 / DIN 53516) is actually quite simple. Abrasion resistance is measured by moving a test piece of rubber across the surface of an abrasive sheet mounted on a revolving drum. It is expressed as volume loss in cubic millimetres, for instance, 150 mm.
The most important thing to remember when comparing abrasion test results (or promises!) is that higher figures represent a greater loss of surface rubber which means that there is a lower resistance to abrasion. Conversely, the lower the figure, the better the wear resistance.
Comparing (evaluating) one offer from another is made very difficult by virtue of the fact that (with only one exception that I know of) the technical datasheets provided by manufacturers and traders will almost invariably only show the minimum figure demanded by a particular test method or quality standard rather than the actual performance that the belt being offered would be expected to achieve.
Buyers of conveyor belts must remember that DIN and ISO standards are only the minimum benchmarks of acceptability. Even then, laboratory tests consistently reveal that despite the claims of the manufacturers, more than 50% are found to be significantly below those minimum standards.
There is a lot more to conveyor belts than meets the eye. Fitting and replacing two or three economically priced belts rather opting for the longer operational lifetime provided by a single, good quality abrasion resistant belt is invariably a false economy and much more hassle in the long run!
As often as not, the quality of a belt is reflected in its price, so it is always worth the effort to check and compare the original manufacturers specifications very carefully and ask for documented evidence of compliance and performance.
This article first appeared on our sister website, www.aggbusiness.com. Its author, Leslie David has specialized in conveyor belting for more than 14 years. During that time, he has written numerous technical guidance features and papers and has become one of the most published authors on conveyor belt technology in Europe.
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