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rock phosphate fertilizer

how to use rock phosphate fertilizer in your garden | epic gardening

how to use rock phosphate fertilizer in your garden | epic gardening

Rock phosphate is a long-standing organic fertilizer for gardens. Its known for keeping plants healthy and encouraging new growth. It does this by adding phosphorus, thereby helping them to make other plant nutrients more accessible. But what exactlyisrock phosphate, and how should it be used for your plants?

Also known as phosphorite, rock phosphate is a sedimentary rock that contains high amounts of phosphorus. The rock is mined and also contains clay and limestone. Phosphate rock is, of course, an essential source of phosphorus the essential nutrient P from the three vital nutrients NPK. Its used for making organic phosphate fertilizers for gardens.

In the olden days, gardeners used rock phosphate as a fertilizer for plant growth. However, its low phosphorus concentration and lack of supply have led most gardeners today to use the processed version.

Modern fertilizers contain soft rock phosphate, which is often confused with hard phosphate rock. Both sources contain high amounts of phosphorus and calcium. However, these nutrients are more accessible in soft rock phosphate, making application easier. As a slow-releasing fertilizer, it provides your plants with a consistent source of essential macronutrients.

Phosphate rock is extremely rich in essential nutrients to ensure vibrant, healthy plants. These fertilizers are also known as rock dust due to the rock minerals in them. Using phosphate rock fertilizers is a common practice for encouraging healthy blooms and vegetables.

Flowers like roses love phosphate rock fertilizers as it helps them develop more buds and a stronger root system. The phosphates present in the formula are also used for a healthy lawn and tree root system development. It serves as an all-purpose fertilizer for different kinds of perennials and trees in the garden.

If youre growing a vegetable garden, you will have to take stronger measures to ward off pests and diseases. Thankfully, phosphates help in reducing pests and enhance the flavor and yield of your vegetable crops. Powdered rock phosphate is excellent for crops like coffee, tea, apples, rubber, and citrus. Their soil conditions can tolerate the direct application of the fertilizer.

Rock dust or rock phosphate usually has a slow-releasing effect on plants. It is best applied in early spring, a little before the flowering season. You should ideally aim for 10 pounds of rock phosphate fertilizer for every 100 square feet.

Rock phosphate requires specific soil conditions under which it performs the best. It is typically more accessible in acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5. This way, the phosphorus is soluble and can be absorbed by plant roots.

Definitely. As a natural source of phosphorus, rock phosphate is essential for the maturation and healthy growth of plants. Phosphorus also plays a crucial role in photosynthesis. This nutrient is present from the seedling growth to the maturation of grain. Every plant, therefore, requires phosphorus in the early years. The nutrient supports its vigor and overall health.

Rock phosphate also provides phosphorus from the energy storage and transfer, cell enlargement, and respiration in plants. Without the application of rock phosphate, plants can not grow fully nor regulate their metabolic pathways.

Soft rock phosphate is insoluble if the pH of your soil is above 5.5. It needs acidic conditions to be fully absorbed by the plant roots. To use soft rock phosphate properly, always incorporate it into the soil before planting. You can also add it to a planting hole when repotting or planting trees.

If you have a well-established lawn and trees, scatter the rock phosphate over the landscape. Gently rake it into the soil to incorporate it better into the root zone. For transplanting and growing trees, use 2-10 pounds for every planting hole. If your soil is particularly deficient in phosphorus, you can increase the uptake to 50 pounds for every 100 square feet. Depending on how healthy your plants are, a single application of soft rock phosphate can last for 5 years.

The phosphorus in rock phosphate requires acidic soil to be accessible. Alkaline soil can make the fertilizer almost useless. To speed up the process, you can add the fertilizer to compost. The acidic nature of compost can allow the chemical bonds to loosen, thereby making phosphorus more accessible to the roots.

You can add other beneficial microbes like mycorrhizae for the fast release of phosphorus. Always buy high-quality rock phosphate from a reputable company to ensure your plants get the best treatment.

Phosphate rock is a naturally-occurring fertilizer. In most cases, it reacts with sulfuric acid to make phosphoric acid (P2O5) before it can be used. The acid is added to pulverized phosphate rock. Phosphoric acid is then processed further to create good fertilizers for gardens, trees, flowers, and vegetables.

When sulphuric acid is used, the resulting chemical, which is called Normal or single phosphate (SSP), is made, which contains 16-21% of phosphorus content. The production of SSP starts by mixing the phosphate rock and sulphuric acid in a reactor. After that, the mixture is transferred to a slow-moving conveyor. It is then cured for at least 4-6 weeks before it is packaged and shipped as a fertilizer. All phosphate fertilizer plants have phosphoric and sulfuric acid production facilities.

Phosphate rock can be considered an organic fertilizer, depending on how you define organic. True organic fertilizers like compost are derived from organic matter like animals, manure, and plants. Phosphate rock, on the other hand, is a rock mineral, which is processed to be used as a fertilizer. Since its naturally occurring, it helps gardeners avoid the use of synthetic chemical fertilizers. So, by that logic, it is organic.

As a natural and potent source of phosphorus and calcium, it is widely used in organic agriculture. It contains 30% of phosphates and 48% calcium. It is environmentally friendly as it also reduces greenhouse gases, and helps in better yielding crops and flowers.

Rock phosphate might not always be a suitable fertilizer. Since most of it remains insoluble, it can be hard for the roots to absorb the maximum amount of phosphorus. Apart from its bulkiness, its relatively slower than fast-acting synthetic chemical fertilizers.

Even when its relatively eco-friendly, phosphate fertilizers run the risk of water pollution. Phosphates can tightly bind to the soil particles and rarely move out of the soil. If too much fertilizer is used, there are chances of excess phosphorus seeping into the water systems. This can lead to contamination issues as well as bacteria and algae outbreaks.

using rock phosphate for gardens - what does rock phosphate do for plants

using rock phosphate for gardens - what does rock phosphate do for plants

Rock phosphate, or phosphorite, is mined from clay deposits that contain phosphorus and is used to make organic phosphate fertilizers that many gardeners utilize. In the past, rock phosphate was used alone as a fertilizer, but due to a lack in supply, as well as low concentration, most applied fertilizer is processed.

There are a number of types of rock phosphate fertilizer available on the market, some are liquid, and some are dry. Many gardeners swear by using rock-based fertilizers such as rock phosphate, bone meal and Azomite. These nutrient-rich fertilizers work with the soil rather than against it as chemical fertilizers do. The nutrients are then made available to plants at a steady and even rate throughout the growing season.

These fertilizers are commonly called rock dust and provide just the right amount of nutrients to make plants strong and healthy. The use of rock phosphate for gardens is a common practice for both flowers as well as vegetables. Flowers love an application of rock phosphate early in the season and will reward you with big, vibrant blooms.

rock phosphate fertilizer - garden myths

rock phosphate fertilizer - garden myths

Rock phosphate is a mined rock that contains limestone and clay as well as a high concentration of phosphorus (P). The actual composition varies depending on its source but it usually contains 16 to 20% P.

Rock Phosphate is recommended as an organic fertilizer. It is not clear to me why this is considered to be organic, when other mined fertilizers are not organic? There is nothing organic about this product. It contains no animal or plant products of any kind and it not a renewable resource.

The first question to ask is, does your soil need more Phosphorus? Most garden soils contain plenty of phosphorus and adding too much can be detrimental to the microbe population in the soil. You should only consider adding more P if a soil test shows that you need it.

Unless your soil pH is below 5.5, which is unlikely, the rock phosphate is completely insoluble. That means it does not mix with water, and it is not available to plants. One source I found suggests it starts to break down in 100 years. I cant wait that long for my tomatoes!

This is certainly true of any rock phosphate mined in North America. Apparently there is a source in Africa that degrades a bit fasterstarts to degrade in 2 yearsbut most sources in the world are not suitable as a soil amendment.

Plants can access the soluble and labile P through their root system but it is easiest for them to use the soluble form. As they use up the soluble P, some of the labile P is converted to soluble P so that there is always some available to plants.

Commercial fertilizer it is mostly soluble P (in the form of phosphate). Within 24 hours this soluble P starts being converted to labile P and eventually to stable P. What this means is that most of the phosphorus fertilizer you add to the soil is available to plants for a short period of time, and then it gets locked away in the soil. Slowly, it will be made available to plants as it moves from being stable P, to labile P and finally to soluble P.

Hi, I am a beginner and I wanted to ask that if we add rock phosphate powder that you get in market in some water and use lemon juice or any other organic acid to it, to reduce its pH till lets say 6.6 or 5.5; will that solubilize more additional phosphate (from rock phosphate) to the water? And can then that water be used for plants as more phosphate is available? What will happen?

If you dissolve rock phosphate in acid, it will produce phosphate ions. That is essentially the process used to make fertilizer. https://extension.umn.edu/phosphorus-and-potassium/understanding-phosphorus-fertilizers#process-619211

Your use of the phrase organic fertilizer describes the chemical use of the phrase organic, which is separate from the horticultural use of organic. This latter use is tied to e.g. OMRI certification, the USDA National Organic Program, and the Organic Foods Production Act of 1990, but more broadly organic is a global movement which began in the 1920s and 30s through a synthesis between modern agricultural sciences and traditional agriculture (especially in India, China, and Japan).

One concise description of the organic movement is that it aims to treat the stewarded land as an organic whole. This the the way Walter James AKA Lord Northbourne, who coined the phrase organic farming, used it in Look to the Land and subsequent writings. In other words, organic fertilizer does not need to be derived from organic material: it only needs to relate to the cultivation in a way which serves the whole system in a sustainable, regenerative way. As a rule of thumb for organic fertilizers, they should either be low in nutrients or slow to release their nutrients. This serves the holistic principle that soil ecology is more resilient to slow changes than rapid ones.

It is true that rock phosphate is not an especially great fertilizer, but it is one tool which some circumstances will warrant, such as veganic gardening, which is organic-system gardening with the additional imperative that no fertilizer is of animal origin. Bonemeal is the standard phosphate source for organic fertilizer. Basic slag is another Phosphorus source, a by-product of iron and steel production, but is unlikely to be available in most markets. So-called superphosphate and triple phosphate are synthetic fertilizers derived from reacting rock phosphate with sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid, respectively.

As an aside, in general, if compost is used as a nitrogen fertilizer, it will also provide for the nutrient requirements of Potassium (K), Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg) and Sulfur (S), but additional fertilizing will be needed to meet the requirements for Phosphorus (P) and the micronutrients.

Rock phosphate or hard rock phosphate is a nonrenewable mined material derived from ancient marine life. (As an aside, this makes it a fossil form of an animal byproduct, perhaps with the important distinction that humans are not the mechanism which converted these animals into fertilizers, so thus we bear none of the blame.)

Soft or colloidal rock phosphate is a lower-grade of rock phosphate, being a byproduct of rock phosphate production. Soft rock phosphate is essentially the clay that gets washed off of rock phosphate during processing. These clay particles still have a good amount of residual rock phosphate clinging to them, making colloidal rock phosphate suitable as a fertilizer. But soft rock phosphate is not more accessible than hard rock phosphate, and all the clay essentially dilutes it as a phosphate fertilizer (containing about 20% P2O5 compared to 30% in hard rock phosphate). The available phosphate in rock phosphate is already very low.

The rock must be finely ground and mixed thoroughly with the soil (This facilitates the physical deterioration of the rock phosphate, called weathering, which converts the material into a form available for uptake by plants) The soil should be acid (5.5 pH recommended, and no less than 5.0 pH, helping to convert rock phosphate into available phosphates) Organic matter should be added with the rock phosphate (Materials such as compost and manure produce acids and facilitate chelation which help to convert rock phosphate into available phosphates) Rock phosphate should be applied in amounts that are two, four, or even up to 10 times the recommendations for phosphorus application indicated by soil tests for chemical fertilizers to allow for the low availability of phosphorous in rock phosphate (Available P205 is 3% for rock phosphate, 2% for colloidal/ soft rock phosphate)

Another limitation of rock phosphate (including soft/colloidal rock phosphate) is that the Phosphorus becomes less available the longer it is in the soil, until years have passed and very large reserves of non-available Phosphorus which have accumulated in the topsoil gradually convert to available forms (this will only happen on sites with little erosion). Rock phosphate should be added to the soil at the time of seeding or transplanting.

I came across a pallet of Tennessee Black Rock Phosphate at an auction once, and brought it home for the same price as lime. I spread it in April on a lower hayfield/pasture that would consistently produce 2t. acre of baled hay in mid-June, then take up the slack for our permanent pastures through mid-October. In other words, a good fertile, well watered field. There was no immediate response, or change in the hay, but immediately after harvest the entire area shot up in alsike clover so thick you couldnt walk through it without picking up your feet. This was all the more surprising since, while the pasture always would come in as a nice blend of small white clover and grass, NO alsike at all was really noticed before. Fortunately, the former owner and I were still in contact and when I told him about it, he told me theyd sown it in an alsike/orchard grass blend over twenty years ago, before the entire field was covered by the reed canarygrass that had pretty much taken over all of the lower fields in that vicinity. When I told the whole story to the elderly retired Ag extension agent who lived nearby, he gave me a big grin and explained the great rock phosphate dilemma. Long story, short

On mildly (5.9-6.4) acidic upland glaciated soils, the stuff works like a miracle for growing legumes- even more so than direct application of lime and P- and no one knows why, even though there are an awful lot of experts who say it cant be true.

Now, what the value of that is to you, you can figure out for yourself. I didnt see any yield increase on the hay, but the cows ate a lot more of it and were happier doing so. The late pasture was definitely thicker, and the cows would graze every inch of that ground twice before theyd venture onto the rest, but I cant really say I noticed any increase in milk output. I sure did notice the gloss it threw on their coats though, and Im not kidding. I suspect its sort of the difference between how you feel eating X amount of protein, calories, vitamins, minerals, and etc. at McDonalds and the same of well grown meat, potato, and vegetables at home.

As a chemist I can see the logic about your comments on rock phosphate. However as a gardener with a fixation on fungi I have to disagree with your conclusion. Around 1999 scientists came to the realization that at least 90% of higher plants need fungi to extract insoluble phosphorus from soils. The fungi extract the phosphate using oxalic acid only they are equipped to handle and trade plants for carbohydrates. Add rock phosphate to soils and let fungi do what fungi do. For a lengthier explanation go to my website and look up Why Organic Gardening Works.

Your statement 90% of higher plants need fungi to extract insoluble phosphorus from soils is not correct, but if you have a good reference that supports this idea, please post it. Most plants do use fungi in normal soil situations, but they grow just fine hydroponically and in soilless mixes, clearly showing they dont need the fungi.

But none of this has anything to do with rock phosphate unless you can demonstrate that fungi are able to decompose this rock much quicker than it decomposes in soil on its own. I have not found any source that shows rock phosphate decomposes quickly in any soil, with or without fungi.

EITHER rock phosphate or soluble fertilizers will work equally well in a garden. If you put rock phosphate down in a garden, the rock phosphate will be dissolved by oxalic acid which mycorrhizae fungi produce. The fungi then trade higher plants for carbohydrates they cannot produce.

From Wikipedia Unaided plant roots may be unable to take up nutrients that are chemically or physically immobilised; examples include phosphate ions and micronutrients such as iron. One form of such immobilization occurs in soil with high clay content, or soils with a strongly basic pH. The mycelium of the mycorrhizal fungus can, however, access many such nutrient sources, and make them available to the plants they colonize.[7] Thus, many plants are able to obtain phosphate, without using soil as a source.

The gardening club reference has not references to their sources. The Wikipedia reference does not even mention rock phosphate. I agree fungi are able to access other forms of phosphate as per the reference, but this does not mean they can access rock phosphate.

However, it was found that plant inoculation with VA-mycorrhizal fungi increased the phosphate uptake by mycorrhizal compared with nonmycorrhizal controls (Evans & Miller 1990; Ruiz-Lozano & Azcon 1993). Many of these studies were done in either sterilized soil or in a small volume of nonsterile soil. Little is known also about the participation of rock-phosphate-solubilizing fungi and mycorrhizal inoculation on growth and P nutrition of crop plants in unsterilized soil, especially under field conditions, where introduced fungi must compete with the indigenous fungal population

The study did go on to inoculate fields with specific fungi and found plants absorbed more phosphate. I dont have the full document. But this is still not proof that there is significant use of rock phosphate in normal soil conditions.

Another reference: https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2FBF02377067?LI=true, did similar testing and found that However, none of these variables (uptake of P by plants) were found to be significantly correlated with the fungal populations.

The present investigation reveals the solubilization efficiency of tri-calcium phosphate (TCP), Udaipur rock phosphate (URP), aluminium phosphate (AP) and ferric phosphate (FP) by Aspergillus niger (ITCC 6719) and Trichoderma harzianum (ITCC 6721) as function of carbon concentrations.

The two fungi employed different mechanisms to reduce medium pH for release of P from TCP, AP and FP. However, URP was solubilized solely through fungal production of citric, succinic, propionic, malic and acetic acid.

1) It is all lab work, so evidence of what rock phosphate might do in real soil. 2) Table 2 seems to show the amount of phosphate available over time for different phosphate sources. Udaipur rock phosphate did not increase phosphate levels over 15 day period. The value for time zero is missing, and no stats have been applied to the data, so we really dont know if Udaipur rock phosphate increased phosphate levels. 3) Fig 1 seems to indicate that Udaipur rock phosphate added very little P, but again there is no control where no P was added so we cant tell if the levels are above a control.

This article seems like personal opinion based on a basic understanding of the phosphorus cycle and chemistry. A cursory search of the relevant academic literature shows that almost all of the phosphate in rock phosphate is available over time. A number of studies showed that rock phosphate was competitive with acid treated, soluble forms within 10 years of initial use. This may seem like a long time, but to a family farm that measures success in decades, it is a worthwhile investment.

You are right to mention the connection between acidity and phosphate availability, but Im not sure where you came up with a pH of 5.5. Much of the literature suggests that the phosphate is made available by microorganisms over time at a normal growing pH, that is 6.3-6.8. Heavy liming made the phosphorus less available, but small amounts increased availability. Adding rock phosphate and elemental sulfur to a compost pile is regarded as an effective way to speed up phosphorus mineralization.

Gardeners would not use rock phosphate because at the scale at which most people garden, they can get their phosphorus from compost or bagged fertilizer mixes. This isnt economically feasible on a commercial production scale. Rock phosphate is affordable (<$400/ton delivered) and slow release, which farmers who want to limit field passes, organic or otherwise, find valuable. That doesn't make it a myth, just as the countless other products and techniques that farmers use and gardeners don't aren't myths. They are fundamentally different practices driven by different goals.

RE: It contains no animal or plant products of any kind and it not a renewable resource. Could you comment on this please: My understanding is that is the two primary minerals that make up phosphorite (rock phosphate) are hydroxyapatite and fluoroapatite. According to this wikipedia page https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphorite Ca5(PO4)3OH or Ca10(PO4)6(OH)2, which is often dissolved from vertebrate bones and teeth, whereas fluorapatite can originate from hydrothermal veins and according to Table 2 of Investigation of Cd contents in several phosphate rocks used for the production of fertilizer https://www.researchgate.net/publication/225274804_Investigation_of_Cd_contents_in_several_phosphate_rocks_used_for_the_production_of_fertilizer the primary source of rock phosphate from Florida*, USA, is primarily composed of Hydroxyapatite.

*Florida a primary source for rock phosphate in the USA Florida is presently providing approximately 75 percent of the nations supply of phosphate fertilizer and about 25 percent of the world supply. http://www.fipr.state.fl.us/about-us/phosphate-primer/other-phosphate-deposits

At what point do you no longer consider something to be organic? If it was organic millions of years ago, is it still organic, if it is now a pure compound? Since rock phosphate no longer contains organic molecules, I dont consider it to be organic. It is now no different than any other mineral.

Robert, we just put on 2000 lbs/acre based on our soil test. I remembered Calphos as being granular, but its not, its a powder and looks like a yellow limestone. I agree with you, to just throw material at the garden or crop without a soil test is a waste. This application was based on our chronically low P levels. Our soils hold K like crazy so we put minimal amounts of that on.but that P and Ca!!!! Enjoying your comments!

I think that there are 2 types of rock phosphate. One is hard rock phosphate (not very useful for produce) and the other is soft rock phosphate-the soft rock that we apply is called Cal-Phos and I think that its 0-3-0 (3% available and 20% total). It is a brown, granular material which softens up when wet. I think that it also contains a total of 20% Ca too. Our soils are very low in P and Ca so we apply the Cal-Phos for a slower but more sustained release at high rates (1000-2000 lbs/acre), as well as 180 lbs/a of 11-52-0 (MAP) for a quicker shot of P. It works for us!

I worked for a company in Alberta Canada that processed Rock Phosphate by the tons.and sent most of it to the US farmers. the process was quite ingenious. They actually broke the raw Phosphate down to about 4 or 5 microns so it was actually like water. and when mixed with water and applied to the soil ,went straight to the roots. just saying

What does that tell you? Unless you also know that other details for these fields it does not tell you much. Assuming we know that all other conditions for both fields were identical, then it is possible that the fields were short of phosphorus and the pH was low. In that case, some of the P would be released.

The term Rock Phosphate may be a poor choice for the product given many of the new products on the marketbut it has been called this for a long time. Much of the phosphate used in agriculture is mined, and the minerals they mine is called Rock Phosphate. The product contains up to 30% phosphate which is quite high. The rock part is not importantit is just a good source of phosphate.

I am not familiar with glacial rock dust but have looked at a number of such products. There are now many claims of magic happening from mineral deposits from ancient volcanoes or glacial deposits. I decided to have a look at this product.

If you look at the ingredient list on the product web site it has 1.4% calcium, 0.6% magnesium, virtually no cobalt, 1% iron and 1.3% sodium. Sodium is probably not good for the plants. Plants need very little iron and cobalt and soil usually has enough of these nutrients. Plants do need more calcium and magnesium, but again most soil is not deficient of these nutrients. If you soil does need either of these, adding 1% is not very much. There are many cheap sources of calcium (bone meal) and magnesium (Epsom salts).

the comment Long-lasting: Good for the whole season ~ Slowly available nutrients is important. The product is ground rocks. Rocks dont dissolve very easily. What this means is that it will take many years before the plants can use these nutrients. For one product I reviewed it was expected that it would take 100 years before the product was available to plants.

Our Glacial Rock Dust lets the soil re-create the colloids (minerals and humus) which are needed to improve soil structure, moisture holding properties, nutrient availability and bacterial action. This statement is just wrong. The product does not contain any humus and adding a bit of minerals will not create humus. This product will have almost no effect on soil structure or moisture holding properties.

using rock phosphate fertilizer in the home garden

using rock phosphate fertilizer in the home garden

is essential in building a biological soil, it is a major building block in all living plants and crucial for plants to develop healthy root systems, set fruit and assimilate nutrients for good plant growth.

Hard rock phosphate should not be confused with soft rock phosphate, which is a by product of mining the phosphate rock. While both these products supply the much needed phosphate required by plants their use in agriculture and gardening are different.

Unlike soft phosphate rock phosphate from hard rock is not immediately plant available, the end product of the crushed phosphate rock releases its nutrient fairly slowly making it good to build the long-term supply of phosphorous in your soils but of little help with soils that require immediate phosphate.

Phosphate mined from rock mineral deposits is usually granulated for ease of application, it contains 20 percent phosphorous and 48 percent calcium, this can raise soil pH so use needs to be avoided if your soil is already alkaline. Crusted and washed phosphate rock is a total natural substance and is approved for use in organic agriculture and food production.

Phosphate fertilizer for traditional agriculture is often further treated with sulfuric acid to produce Triple phosphate or Super phosphate, by changing the composition of the phosphate it is rendered unsuitable for use in organic agriculture and gardening.

Phosphate Rock is not a complete fertilizer and is best used in combination with other nutrient sources to provide what your soil need. Application rates depend on a variety of factors but a rough guide is 3-8 lbs per 100 square feet.

how to use fertilizers-soft rock phosphate | organic gardening blog
 grow organic

how to use fertilizers-soft rock phosphate | organic gardening blog grow organic

Paul, are you wanting to increase the pH of your soil? If so you may still want to use the Dolomite. Soft rock phosphate raises the pH about 1/3 as much as oyster shell lime or dolomite. Really depends on what you are trying to do to your soil, raise the pH or just add more phosphorus to your soil.

Paul, are you wanting to increase the pH of your soil? If so you may still want to use the Dolomite. Soft rock phosphate raises the pH about 1/3 as much as oyster shell lime or dolomite. Really depends on what you are trying to do to your soil, raise the pH or just add more phosphorus to your soil.

Thanks for publishing this! I was wondering, for a soil with a pH level of approx 5.5-6.5 (neutral-acidic) would CalPhos be a good candidate? Also, would using this product eliminate the need to additionally add Dolomite Lime?

rock phosphate down to earth fertilizer

rock phosphate down to earth fertilizer

Down To Earth Rock Phosphate is essential for building soil phosphate levels for long-term plant productivity and for preventing calcium deficient soils. It should be applied to soils prior to planting and can be mixed with compost or manures for additional soil building benefits. This premium powder grade is an excellent nutrient resource for all types of flowering plants including bulbs, fruits, shrubs, trees and vegetables.

Vegetable Gardens & Flower Beds: To prepare new gardens, apply 2.5-5 lbs per 100 square feet and thoroughly mix into the top 3 of soil. For new transplants, add cup per hole, mix into soil and water in well. To feed established plants, side dress - cup in Fall or early Spring to promote fruiting and flowering during the growing season.

Containers: For new plantings, add cup per gallon of soil and mix thoroughly OR add 5-10 lbs per cubic yard. For established plants, lightly mix 1 tbsp per gallon into the soil surface every other month during the growing season.

Trees & Shrubs: Spread 1 lb per 1 of trunk diameter around the base outwards to the drip line, mix into soil surface and water in well. For new trees, prepare transplant hole and mix 1-2 cups with the backfill soil. Use the amended soil to fill in around the new tree, and water in well.

what is rock phosphate and how to use it in your garden? best garden info

what is rock phosphate and how to use it in your garden? best garden info

Although phosphorus is present in every balanced all-purpose fertilizer, the reason why many gardeners prefer to use a rockphosphate fertilizer is because it doesnt work against the soil, like most chemical fertilizers.

I've struggled with depression forever but was feeling ok when covid hit Massachusetts/the US a year ago. The first few months were rough as everything was uncertain but as I

phosphate rock |fertilizers: manufacturers, suppliers, wholesalers

phosphate rock |fertilizers: manufacturers, suppliers, wholesalers

Phosphate rock (or Phosphorite) basically refers to any form of rock that possesses a high phosphorous content. Often extracted by means of surface drilling, this rock is mined through a blasting and harvesting process. Its uses are quite varied. Frequently it is utilized to make calcium phosphate nutritional supplements, and more regularly it is put into fertilizers for agricultural use.

Nearly 80% of the world phosphate rock is currently mined from sedimentary deposits of phosphate rich material endemic to areas such as China, the Middle East, Africa and the US. Now produced almost exclusively from surface mines (versus underground mines), phosphate rock is an extremely useful mineral.

We export the raw phosphate rocks directly from the mines. The origin of such rocks is generally Aswan. Located along the Nile, there are numerous well-known quarries in this area. Rich in minerals and varying types of stone, Aswan is a major mining region.

Eager to accommodate your needs, we offer a variety of packaging and shipment options for our phosphate rock products. Supplying largely to the agricultural industry, we often ship in bulk utilizing various vessels and containers. Depending on your countrys regulations and restrictions, we can come up with a solution and packaging option to deliver your Egyptian phosphorite product safely and efficiently.

Its primary use is in the agricultural industry. Crucial to fertilizers, phosphate rock represents the building block of the fertilizer industry. The calcium phosphate imbues the soil with nutrients that are vital to plant and other type of organic growth. Also, phosphate rock has been used extensively in animal feed and supplements.

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